Situated less than a mile from the Guatemalan border, Belize’s Xunantunich ruins are truly a testament to the sophistication of the Maya civilization. This ancient city flourished from approximately 600 to 900 AD before falling into decline and eventually being abandoned.
At the height of its power, Xunantunich would have been filled with a diversity of people and occupations. From the ruling elite to the farmers who fed the population to the artists who recorded its history, everyone played an integral role in the development of this ancient city.
So how did this all happen? Isn’t it easier to believe that aliens created these magnificent structures?
Well maybe if you’re into conspiracy theories. However, for us educated people, we know that the Mayans built these structures and occupied these ancient cities. They had no wheels, no domesticated animals, and they accomplished this feat hundreds of years before the Aztec and Inca empires even existed.
In this article we’re going to take a look at the history of the Xunantunich Mayan ruins and attempt to find answers to some of these mysteries. Along the way, we’ll also give you advice on how to visit this unique destination on the border of Belize and Guatemala.
Xunantunich History
Contrary to popular belief, most residents of these ancient Mayan cities did not live particularly close to the tall structures that we now call ruins or pyramids. This was often reserved for kings and the political elite. Everyone else lived on the outskirts of these cities and would only enter the ceremonial center for special events or to attend to business.
Archaeologists believe that the land surrounding Xunantunich was mostly composed of numerous small villages where clusters of farmers grew their own crops.
Once the ancient city rose to prominence around 600 AD, these farmers began to engage in a trade relationship with the city but they were not necessarily associated with it. This is due to the fact that ancient Mayan cities were often violently attacked by their neighbors in an effort to obtain valuable resources. The farmers surrounding Xunantunich were weary of these invasions and did not want to lose their established plots of land if this were to happen.
Xunantunich was originally dependent on a more powerful city called Naranjo, which is located in Guatemala. For unknown reasons, Naranjo’s influence began to weaken sometime during the 9th century AD.
As the city declined, Xunantunich became increasingly powerful. Archaeologists have noted that there are many similarities between Xunantunich and Naranjo, which further solidifies the belief that these two ancient cities were once politically and economically connected.
It has been theorized that Xunantunich outlasted other nearby cities due to its rich soil, proximity to rivers, and defensive location atop a natural hill. By 1,000 AD the site was largely abandoned.
Mayan Pyramids
The thing that makes the Xunantunich Mayan ruins so impressive is the level of artistry that can be seen in El Castillo, which is the name of the ancient city’s main temple. Surprisingly enough, El Castillo is actually the second tallest man-made structure in all of Belize. Visitors are able to climb to the top of this pyramid and gaze out onto the Belizean and Guatemalan countryside.
It’s easy to look at El Castillo and wonder how an ancient civilization could have possibly built this structure some 1,200 or 1,300 years ago. While I don’t have a definitive answer, I can attempt to shed some light into this process.
For one, structures like El Castillo were typically not built all at once. In this specific case, El Castillo had multiple distinct construction periods over hundreds of years. For example, one king may have ordered it to be built to a certain height, then the next may have continued its construction, so on and so on.
In terms of the actual process, the Mayan civilization typically used slaves or low ranking citizens to gather limestone and haul it back to each specific city. Once the stones reached the ceremonial center, the Mayans would implement various DIY mortar techniques to help bind the elements together. They started with the base and would continuously build upwards with smaller stones until they achieved the stepped pyramid that we see today.
One thing is certain: Building a structure such as El Castillo was an incredibly difficult task. Between the logistics and the manpower, it would have taken an unimaginable amount of time and effort to complete one of these pyramids.
How To Get To Xunantunich
It’s one thing to read about Xunantunich but it’s an entirely different thing to actually visit this ancient city.
Xunantunich is located near the town of Benque Viejo, which is about 77 miles west of Belize City. While it’s possible to visit the ruins from the Belizean capital, I would highly recommend spending a few nights in another nearby town called San Ignacio. The reason for this is that San Ignacio is a fantastic destination and it’s located less than 7 miles from Xunantunich. From San Ignacio, you could either take a taxi or a public bus over to the ruins.
There are frequent buses that leave from the center of San Ignacio every day. Each bus will have a sign that says either Belize City or Benque Viejo. You’ll want to take the one that says Benque Viejo and then ask the driver to let you off at Xunantunich. Taking a public bus is very easy and it’ll only cost you $2.
Whichever transportation method you choose, you’ll be dropped off on the side of the highway and will then need to take a ferry across the river. The ferry is free but you can tip the operator is you feel inclined.
Once you’re on the other side of the river, you’ll have to walk about a mile up the road to reach the Xunantunich visitor center. If you opt for a tour, your guide will park their vehicle on the ferry and you’ll be driven directly to the entrance. However, it’s completely acceptable to visit the ruins without a tour.
The Stone Woman
There’s a legend dating back to 1892 about a ghost that inhabits Xunantunich. The Stone Woman, as this ghost is commonly referred to, is dressed in all white and has glowing red eyes. The lore says that she can be seen ascending the steps of El Castillo before disappearing into a stone wall.
Although it seems doubtful that you would see any ghosts while visiting Xunantunich, you will certainly see the sophistication and grandeur of this ancient city. You’ll be able to climb to the top of the second tallest structure in the entire country and gaze out into wide expanses of tropical forest. Most importantly, you will gain an insight into one of the most fascinating civilizations to have ever existed.
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Wow! Imagine standing on the very top of el Castillo and yelling out into the jungle! That’s truly living!
Well said!
Great article. I really want to go to Belize and this certainly helps bump it up the list.
I’m glad to hear that Heather! Thanks for leaving a comment.
Fascinating history, thank you so much for taking me there. Great read and photos
Thanks Lyn, very happy to hear that you enjoyed it!
This looks wonderful – Belize is on the list now! Thank you for such an informative and fun post!
I’m glad to hear that Paul, thanks for reading!
Just lovely — really enjoyed the history lesson in the post. I cannot believe the people in this civilization didn’t have wheels. How did they manage! Looks like a great visit!
Thanks for leaving a comment! Yes the fact that they didn’t have wheels makes it especially impressive.
Love the history behind this! It’s one of the few things I remember learning about in middle school. Thanks for sharing!
That’s great that you learned about this stuff in middle school! I don’t think they taught it at mine.
Definitely would not have thought that Belize had ruins like this. I also didn’t know English was so prevalent there!
Yes it’s certainly not what people imagine when they think of Belize!
Excellent! I love the history. The Mayan culture has always fascinated me! The ruins are absolutely beautiful! Is it believed that Xunantunich, due to its location playe a part in the decline of other Mayan civilizations?
I’m glad to hear that you’re interested in Mayan culture! The various Maya cities all declined independently of one another. It’s believed that they all fell into decline and were largely abandoned at some point or another due to factors such as draught, overpopulation, and constant warfare. Xunantunich just lasted a little bit longer than some of the neighboring cities!
Sounds like a fascinating place to visit and steeped in history.
It is certainly both of those things!
Great article on the Mayan temples In Belize, didn’t know there were any in the country.
Thanks for reading. Yes there are quite a few in this small country surprisingly enough!